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Dienstag, 30. September 2014
What Happens When You Underwater Your Marijuana Plants?
All plants, including marijuana, consist of about 80% water. Therefore it makes sense that issues with the water management could cause damage to the marijuana plant. Outside in the ground, the marijuana plant usually has enough soil to work with. Depending on the quality and the structure of the soil, it also helps to regulate the amount of moisture. With indoor cannabis cultivation in pots it’s highly likely that the plant gets too much or too little water. The risks indoors are a lot greater, that why watering of the marijuana plants needs to happen with the greatest knowledge and care.
The water requirement of a marijuana plant is high, but a large portion of the water is also excreted from the plant again. This occurs through evaporation from the leaves. A small amount of all the water remains behind and is used as building blocks. On the way to the ‘construction site’, the water has also helped to absorb and transport the nutrient salts and carbohydrates.
The marijuana plant possesses over a perfect biological mechanism, so it is able to manage the available water as efficiently as possible. Sometimes the plant does not succeed to adjust the available supply and demand of water properly. In almost all cases, this is due to external causes. For instance when you forget to water it, or in all enthusiasm give too much water. A lack, or an excess of water always means that the plant could be doing better. This article is part of the e-Book ” The Marijuana Grow Bible”. Make sure to download it for free at this link here.
In severe or prolonged cases the marijuana plant may even die. A shortage of water has a number of consequences. Since water is essential for photosynthesis, the lack thereof will reduce the photosynthesis in the plant. Furthermore the plant will, to carefully manage the available water, close the stomata on its leaves. As a result, less water evaporates and therefore the plant also absorbs less water. Consequently, it also means that no CO2 can go through the plant.
A lack of water supply causes a stagnation of the nutrient supply from the ground as well. Not enough nutrients means a shortage in protein production. The marijuana plant will show signs of nutritional deficiency in no time. Adding fertilizer is useless, because the plant can’t absorb it anyway due to the lack of water. So the symptoms of such a nutritional deficiency are therefore secondary: they refer to another deficiency. It’s always of great importance to identify the primary issue (shortage) of a sick marijuana plant because otherwise the problems can only become greater rather than smaller.
A third consequence of a water shortage is that the marijuana plant is going to breathe faster. This is because the plant has to put in a lot more effort to loosen the remaining water in the ground. This takes a lot of energy from the plant, energy that can no longer be diverted to growth and flowering.
A lack of water can be identified by:
- drooping leaves
- leaves becoming brighter
- leaves that shrivel suddenly
- leaves that wither eventually
Determining the right diagnose is not as simple, because these symptoms look a lot like the signals the marijuana plant gives if there’s an abundance of water. This is for the simple reason that in both cases the same biological processes stagnate. When you encounter these symptoms always check to see if too much, or not enough water has been given.
Too much water causes the roots to be too wet, so they take in less oxygen. The roots themselves are affected by the moisture, soften and eventually die. The marijuana plant is very vulnerable due to its fine root system.
It takes a long time before a marijuana plant recovers from damaged roots, and a lot of things can go wrong in that time period. Not only the growth is less successful, it can also come to a complete halt. Moreover, the plant loses its vitality and becomes very vulnerable to pests and diseases.
What Is The Best pH And EC Levels For Hydro Marijuana Growers?
pH level
For the growth of all life, the correct acidity of the growth medium, fertilizers and water is very important. The acidity level determines the quality of the bacterial life, and the metabolic rate of the marijuana plant. Bacteria, which are important for the conversion of fertilizer to absorbable substances thrive best in a neutral environment, which means a pH level of 7.
The pH is a measure of the acidity concentration in a solution, the acronym stands for ‘Potentia Hydrogenii’. In fact, it is the ratio of negatively and positively charged water ions. The acidity is determined by the number of positively charged ions. A liquid is neutral when the number of positively and negatively charged particles keep each other balanced. When certain substances are added, this acidity balance can go either to the acid or the alkaline side. The pH level of a solution is nothing more than the concentration of positively charged ions in that substance.
These positively charged particles are expressed on a pH scale, which ranges from 0 (acid) to 14 (alkaline). A liquid with a pH level of 7 is called neutral; non acidic and non alkaline. This scale is logarithmic. In other words: if the pH level changes with one point, the liquid is more acidic or more alkaline with a factor of 10. Compared with a neutral liquid (pH 7), a solution with a pH level of 6 is 10 times more acidic, and a pH level of 5 is a hundred times more acidic! When mixing acids and salts you have to be very careful how much you add, it can be too much very quickly. This article is part of the e-Book ” The Marijuana Grow Bible”. Make sure to download it for free at this link here.
Trace elements, which the marijuana plant needs to a some degree, are bound in water with a higher pH level and can no longer be absorbed by the plant. What’s good for one thing, like the roots, is less suitable for the other, like the trace elements. So it’s finding a pH level that’s acceptable for all participants. It’s best to work with water and nutrient solutions that are slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. The level can be a half a point higher in the slabs.
pH levels
- between 5.5 and 5.8 perfect
- between 5.3 and 6.5 good
- between 5.0 and 7.0 acceptable
- below 4.5 and above 8.0 disrupted absorption of nutrients
- below 3.5 and above 9.0 irreversible damage to the roots
pH too low
In a nutrient solution with a pH of 5 or lower, elements such as iron, manganese and particularly aluminum are changing in a way that they become toxic to the marijuana plant. In order to prevent that, a nutrient solution needs to have a pH of at least 5.5. Before nutrient water is given to your plant you need to measure the pH of that water and adjust it accordingly. The pH level can be increased by adding caustic potash to the water. In a grow shop or garden center these are for sale as pH+.
pH too high
With a pH level above 6.5, iron, calcium and phosphorus ions are bound together. These substances are still present in the feeding solution, but aren’t disposable. The consequences of such a defect is very radical and decreases the development, growth and eventually the yield of a marijuana plant.
Feeding water with a pH of 6.5 or higher must therefore be reduced by adding diluted nitric acid in the growth period, and diluted phosphoric acid in the flowering period. These resources are for sale in the grow shop or garden center as pH- growth (nitric acid), and pH- flowering, (phosphoric acid). Be careful with this stuff because a few drops of pH- changes the pH of 10 liters of water easily by 2 points.
Measure the feeding water again after adding pH- or pH+ to make sure the pH is good. Keep in mind that EC and pH have a lot to do with each other. An increase of EC causes (due to acidity) a pH reduction. When changing the EC also the acidity level needs to be adjusted.
EC value
The acronym stands for Electric Conductivity. Marijuana plants that go through a rapid growth and flower period need to have plenty of nutrients. To measure the nutritional value (the actual nutrient salts), you’ll need to use an EC meter.
Unambiguous values for the number of nutrient salts in a solution are difficult to indicate. The EC also depends on the size of the marijuana plant, the amount of water and the number of times you drip, the lighting, the natural EC values of the tap water and the humidity levels in your growing space. All this determines how much water and nutrition a marijuana plant really needs.
Your own preference plays an important role as well of course. Some marijuana growers get great results with ‘irresponsibly’ strong nutrition solutions, others have fine harvests with really weak nutrient solutions. Generally it can be said that a nutrient solution for young marijuana plants has an EC value of 1.2 till 1.5 mS, and that can be all the way up until 3.0 mS for adult plants. If the natural EC of tap water deviates too much of different fertilizer averages (based on an average EC of 0.4/0.5 mS), that difference in EC has to be readjusted.
Example:
Grower A measures an EC of 0.5 in his tap water. He wants to have an EC of 1.8 and thus adds 1.3 EC worth of nutrition.
Grower B has harder water and measures an EC of 0.8 in his tap water. If he also wants to have an EC of 1.8, grower B only has to add 1.0 EC worth of nutrition. That’s 0.3 EC less than his fellow grower.
So to provide the same amount of nutrition as grower A, grower B has to create an EC of 2.1. Furthermore, you can assume that the EC in the slabs may be a half a point higher than in the dripping water. The level of the EC value also depends on the number of drip feedings. A relatively high feed solution with an EC of 2.7 for instance, spread over five drip feedings of 500 ml per plant will be less problematic than a drip feeding of 150 ml with the same solution, six times a day. In the latter case, the salts will evaporate from the solution so that the EC increases tremendously.
Those who prefer to drip frequently therefore use a less strong nutrient solution. In all cases you need to know what the nutrient solution in the slabs do. So check the pH and EC of the drain water that comes out of the slabs every other day. And every 5th and 6th day you need to take a water sample directly from the slabs using a syringe.
What Is A Good Marijuana Grow Schedule From Week To Week?
Marijuana Grow Schedule
This is an example schedule suitable for indoor marijuana growers who use pre-fertilized soil, but it can also be used by hydro growers. The schedule starts on the day you put the marijuana clones or seedlings in your growing space. So seedlings should already have a few internodes, and clones need to be well rooted. Read the schedule all the way through so you know what to expect. This schedule is part of the ‘Marijuana Grow Bible‘, which can be downloaded for free.
Week 1 grow
Light Quantity - 50% of the lamps on (400watt HPI)
Light Distance - 3.2 ft (100cm) between lamp and plant
Light Duration - 18 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 73.4ºF / 64.4ºF (23ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 80%
pH level - 6.0
EC - no nutrients
Light Quantity - 50% of the lamps on (400watt HPI)
Light Distance - 3.2 ft (100cm) between lamp and plant
Light Duration - 18 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 73.4ºF / 64.4ºF (23ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 80%
pH level - 6.0
EC - no nutrients
You want to let the marijuana plants get used to the light during the first week. If you have an HPI lamp, use it during the grow period. HPI light emits more white/blue light than HPS and this stimulates growth. Give your plants enough water for the first time so it flows out from the bottom of the pot. Wait to water them again until the plants have used up all the water. Spray your marijuana plants every day with a plant spray bottle to keep the humidity levels nice and high. You don’t have to add any fertilizer because it’s already present in the soil (hydro growers can start with EC 1.0).If you don’t have a pH or EC meter use a product like marijuana booster, it comes with a feeding and watering schedule.
Week 2 growLight Quantity – 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 18 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 77ºF / 64.4ºF (25ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 80%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.0
Turn on all the lights and reduce the distance between the lamp and top of the marijuana plant to 1.6 ft (50cm), but make sure it doesn’t get too hot. Also water your plants from below, this way the roots will search for the water and grow quickly in the bottom of the pot. You can add some extra nutrients, preferably with a high nitrogen product like grow booster. And if you want to prune your plant, this is the right moment. They still have plenty of time to grow. Aim a fan on its lowest setting just above the plants so it looks like they all ‘dance’ a little bit. This way they’ll get a firm stem. You can switch to bloom if you notice that the tips of the plant leaves touch each other so you know for sure that you’ll get a nice sea of green. Usually you can already switch after a week!
Week 1 flowering
Light Quantity - 100% (600watt HPS)
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 77ºF / 64.4ºF (25ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 70%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.2
Light Quantity - 100% (600watt HPS)
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 77ºF / 64.4ºF (25ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 70%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.2
By reducing the light duration from 18 to 12 hours, the plant ‘thinks’ the fall season is coming and begins to flower. It’ll take a couple of weeks before the first flowers become visible, and until that time the marijuana plant continues to grow nicely. Therefore the demand of nitrogen remains high. Make sure your swivel fan is aimed between the lamp and the plant. This way the hot air under the lamp is spreaded across the grow room, and you won’t damage the plants too much with strong winds. Also make sure that the bottom of the leaves are not getting damaged, or discolor due to insects or a shortage of nutrients, and watch out that the tips of the leaves do not ‘burn’ (become brwn). This may indicate an overdose of nutrients. Remember to download my free Marijuana Grow Bible, because I can’t fit all my tips in this article.
Week 2 flowering
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 78.1ºF / 64.4ºF (26ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 70%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.3
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 78.1ºF / 64.4ºF (26ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 70%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.3
Don’t prune the marijuana plant anymore. Pinching out is fine, which means removing the side shoots on the bottom, so the plant mainly uses its energy to create thick buds. Now they’re growing really fast, so you’ll need to monitor the distance between the plant and the lamp every day and adjust if necessary. If the upper leave begins to curl or discolor it is too warm, and the extractor fan needs to be at a higher setting, and the distance between lamp and plant needs to be greater. Increase the EC every week by 0.1, and you can see how your plants react to it. When you make sure that all the things mentioned above are done correctly you should have healthy green plants with thick stems and large leaves by now that can carry the weights of many heavy buds.
Week 3 floweringLight Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 78.1ºF / 64.4ºF (26ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 60%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.4
At this stage the root system of the marijuana plant has grown a lot and should come from underneath the pot. The first flowers has become visible, and the plant should continue to grow nicely. They consume the maximum amount of water now, so be sure that it’ll never be without it and the soil is always a bit damp. Feel it with your hand halfway in the pot and lift it up to check the moisture level. If you grow from regular seed you need to remove the males now before they fertilize the females and endanger the quality of the weed. Finish this week with a good rinse. Do not add fertilizer to the water, but do keep the pH at 6.
Week 4 flowering
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 80.6ºF / 64.4ºF (27ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 50%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.5
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 80.6ºF / 64.4ºF (27ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 50%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.5
You’ll notice small buds everywhere, and the plant begins to smell really good. The Phosphorus (P) demand increases, so switch to a good bloom fertilizer such as bud booster. You should’ve rinsed it well last week without any fertilizer. This is to decrease the fertilizer with a high amount of nitrogen in the soil and plant, so the plant can absorb a good amount of phosphorus, and the small buds can quickly develop. Remember to download my free Marijuana Grow Bible.
Week 5 flowering
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 80.6ºF / 64.4ºF (27ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 50%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.6
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 80.6ºF / 64.4ºF (27ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 50%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.6
The marijauna plant will no longer continue to grow and will only focus on the production of buds. Make sure that there’s an optimal distance between the plant and the lamp, provide as much light as possible but don’t let it get too hot. The buds are even more sensitive to heat than the leaves. Insert a plant stick under a lamp and attach a thermometer to it to see how warm it really gets. Continue to feed them and pay extra attention to any damage to the leaves caused by insects or fertilizing problems. Also red stems are a sign of stress and may indicate certain problems.
Week 6 floweringLight Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 80.6ºF / 64.4ºF (27ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 50%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.7
The buds continue to develop, and the plant will consume the maximum amount of water and CO2. Make sure your fans stay on in order to provide the marijuana plants with fresh air. Also check to see that your plants are not drying out. This phase always takes long, and it doesn’t look like a lot of things are happening. The challenge is to optimally maintain the environmental conditions such as temperature, humidity and ventilation. Rinse your plants again at the end of the week with water not containing fertilizer, but do maintain a pH level of 6. This will help to stabilize the EC and pH levels of the plant and the soil again.
Week 7 flowering
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 82.4ºF / 64.4ºF (28ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 40%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.8
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 82.4ºF / 64.4ºF (28ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 40%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.8
Your buds are now really starting to get some volume. The plant still needs nitrogen, phosphorus and other nutritious elements, but its most important requirement is now potassium. Use a product like THC booster to provide the plant with optimal nutrition. You will notice that slowly but surely there will be a somewhat of a white deposit on the small leaves around the buds. That’s is THC. The whiter the better. So feed your plant optimally. You will see that the first hairs will color orange.
Week 8 flowering
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 82.4ºF / 64.4ºF (28ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 40%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.8
Light Quantity - 100%
Light distance - 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration - 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night - 82.4ºF / 64.4ºF (28ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level - 40%
pH level - 6.0
EC - 1.8
Now your buds go through their final growth spurt, but will primarily focus on compactness and THC production. It may happen that the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and slowly die, but that’s normal. It is not a nutrient deficiency, so keep feeding them. Check the buds every day for any mold or yellow/brown leaves. Immediately clip any suspicious things or upload your picture to our support page, you’ll get an answer to your question in no time.
Week 9 floweringLight Quantity 100%
Light distance 1.6 ft (50cm)
Light Duration 12 hours
Temperature Day / Night 82.4ºF / 64.4ºF (28ºC/18ºC)
Humidity level 40%
pH level 6.0
EC 1.0
In order to get rid of all the nutrients in your marijuana plants you can significantly reduce the EC level. During the final one or two treatment(s), only give them water with a pH level of 6.0. This also rinses the soil which then you can use again for your next harvest. Keep all factors under control and check for rot or insects. Discoloration of the leaves is normal and slowly the hairs on the buds are also turning brown. If you think your plants are still using the maximum amount of water, and 80% of the hairs aren’t brown yet, you can let them sit for awhile longer. It is also a matter of taste.
In this grow schedule I placed 1 plant per ft2 so I can always weed out any sick or infected plants that are not growing properly. Another advantage of growing one plant per ft2 is that you don’t have to vegetate them for weeks.
How To Grow Purple Haze Marijuana Indoors
Purple Haze General
Everyone knows the terms “Purple Haze” whether or not they have been exposed to marijuana of any kind. We can thank Jimi Hendrix for popularizing the term, even though his song was referring to something a little bit harder than weed. Even so, Purple Haze is known as one of the most powerful varieties of marijuana. With Purple Haze marijuana seeds, you could potentially experience the full force of that legacy.
Purple Haze Smoking Effects
Again, the major thing about Purple Haze is just how powerful it is. The effects of the smoke are immediate and forceful. Many have likened the experience to that of a rushing, soaring, and euphoric experience. For some new smokers, this experience might be a little intimidating, but if you can handle it, it is one of the headiest, unique marijuana events. Some people have even described the initial high as psychedelic. Of course, as time goes by, the psychedelic nature of the high is replaced by a much mellower, indica-influenced body buzz. So, you get the powerful rush of the cerebral high to start, and then a sort of cool-down period after that. Make sure to download ” The Marijuana Grow Bible” for free at this link here.
Purple Haze Plant Features
Most marijuana strains that have a color in the name tend to produce those colors somewhere on the plant. In the case of Purple Haze, you’re mostly just going to get a dark green plant covered in trichomes. During the flowering period, you’ll start to notice an abundance of little orange hairs on the buds.
Purple Haze reaches medium heights at around 40 to 60 inches, although it will likely be on the shorter end of that spectrum. The aroma of the plant itself had kind of a sweet and sour mixture with little woody accents. Yields range as high as 16 ounces per 10 square feet with a THC level of 21%. Feminized Purple Haze marijuana seeds can also ensure that you achieve more female than male plants in your garden.
Purple Haze Medicinal Uses
The often intense nature of the high makes Purple Haze ideal for chronic, severe sufferers of physical pain. For instance, an arthritis patient might attain some relief with the use of Purple Haze. It has also been shown to be effective for mental disorders like anxiety and depression. Nausea and migraines have also been treated with some efficacy by Purple Haze. There are likely other indications for Purple Haze because of its unique properties.
Want to start growing marijuana? All top quality marijuana seeds are available in my marijuana seed shop. We ship seeds to the US, CA and many other countries. For any growing related question please visit the marijuana support page
Raids On Extraction Labs Point To More Holes In The Laws
Raids On Extraction Labs Point To More Holes In The Laws
With the arrests of nine people on felony charges recently after coordinated raids around San Diego by a task force including the Drug Enforcement Agency, the mainstream press appears to have gotten wind of something the DEA is calling “a growing offshoot of the illicit drug trade.”
They’re calling the phenomenon “hash oil labs.”
What they’re talking about is extraction.
Shatter. Concentrate. Dabs. Hash oil. Honey oil.
Call it what you will. It’s marijuana extract and you can buy it legally in most collectives in California with a medicard.
But as of this moment, as became apparent to nine more people this week in San Diego, extraction is illegal. These raids, according to authorities, came on the heels of some 17 other similar raids in the area recently.
Which brings us to yet another ridiculous hole in the swiss-cheese of laws and regulations that govern the use of marijuana in this nation.
If we can buy this stuff, how can it be illegal to make it?
Extracts are know for a heavy high and lung-kicking expansion, which causes a trademark aftercough. Importantly, the smoke is said to be odorless (connoisseurs will rightly disagree on this point; like fine wine there is a particular taste and nose to every batch of concentrate).
But the point is, there is no heavy and tell-tale skunky odor. The buzz word is “discreet.” The vapor expelled from the lungs doesn’t even trip the usual home fire alarm. Meaning extracts are perfect for dorm rooms, apartment buildings, nursing homes. And easily measurable for percentages of active ingredients -- the reason why many say marijuana extracts are the stuff of the future, a time when doses and strains will be able to be more accurately prescribed.
Right now, you get a medicard and you roll the dice on exactly what kind of weed you’re buying. In the future, doctors could prescribe (or partiers could chose) the blend of ingredients (THC, CBD) being ingested.
In fact, the newest laws passed by New York, the 23rd state to legalize marijuana for medical use, onlyallows for patients to consume marijuana though food, oils, pill, or vapors -- no smoking of flower is allowed.
Meaning that most of the pot consumed will be in the form of marijuana concentrates, which are made by extractors at the so called “hash oil labs” the DEA has been busting.
Authorities say that the busts in and around San Diego were partially instigated by some 20 explosions and fires over the last 12 months at so-called hash labs. Extracting wax from marijuana flower requires heat and solvent. While some extractors have experimented with a process utilizing CO2, industrial strength butane gas -- odorless, colorless, and highly explosive -- is often the solvent of choice. There is argument aplenty among enthusiasts and makers about which process creates the most desirable products, factoring in both taste and strength. As in any business, there are artists and hacks, short order cooks and chefs.
“What we have is an amateurish, uncontrolled use of large amounts of explosives in enclosed or improperly vented spaces,” a San Diego deputy district attorney told the Los Angeles Times.
Last year, an explosion at a motel near the port of San Diego, attributed to an amateur hash oil lab, burned two men and a women. One of the men was seen running down the street, engulfed in flames, screaming.
Not exactly Breaking Bad.
The nine arrested in last week’s raids, according to the DEA, were not related to previous fires. All face drug charges. One couple faces child endangerment charges for allegedly setting up their lab in close proximity to their toddler’s bedroom.
Law enforcement sources say there has been an increase in labs extracting oil from marijuana. A task force of state and federal agencies have identified more than fifty clandestine labs in the San Diego area alone.
No doubt many of them sell their product to legal dispensaries around the area. Where customers can buy their product legally and go along on their merry way.
If concentrates are legal, then extracting concentrates -- call it hash oil, wax, shatter, dabs, honey oil, what have you -- needs to be legal as well. What kind of bullshit childish game are we playing here?
Kind of reminds me of the time, a few years ago, when it became legal in some states to BUY marijuana, but remained illegal to GROW.
So of course extractors are making their shit in clandestine labs. There’s no such thing as a legal lab, is there?
Which is to say, if it was legal to extract, there would be no more need for garages and basements and toddler endangerment. Entrepreneurs would be able to rent the appropriately ventilated and zoned factory spaces and turn their mad stoner chemists loose.
"The demand for cannabis oils, edibles, and concentrates continues to rise as some consumers find that they prefer to vaporize or eat their cannabis -- whether it's for the different high, the more discreet consumption, or more lung-friendly medical use,” says Nushin Rashidian, co-author with Alyson Martin of A New Leaf: The End of Cannabis Prohibition, an in-depth study of the nation’s marijuana laws.
“The problem is that the creation of concentrates should be done by experienced and licensed professionals in secure environments, not in homes where they can lead to explosions and injuries. In the absence of such licensing, the rising demand will be met in many instances by amateurs and with lower-quality products," Rashidian says.
As it is, the extraction process is becoming safer and more standardized with the appearance on the market of closed-system extractors (which can be legally purchased from anyone who is offering them for sale). Likewise, the process of extraction, due to the good old American spirit of tinkering things into perfection, is evolving in leaps and bounds, more and more becoming a refined process, considered by its practitioners to be a blend of art and science, like winemaking or other artisanal pursuits.
Across the country there have sprung up a number of underground competitions to rate the best products manufactured. Untold amounts of money are being put into development of newer, better, stronger, easier methods of extraction. (Not to mention the burgeoning market in the glass pipes and accessories used for dabbing, the most ornate of which can run more than tens of thousands of dollars.)
This past summer, the US House of Representatives voted in favor of a line item on a budget bill eliminating funds for DEA operations such as this. (A states rights issue: How is it the feds should be allowed to interfere with laws passed legally by a state? Sound familiar?) It was a meaningless vote, part of the vast and complicated budget process. But it was a beginning, or so we thought.
Now we learn again of task forces being assembled. It feels like the War on Drugs, which we thought was winding down, after some four trillion dollars dubiously spent, is starting up all over again -- just as more states are legalizing.
Pay attention, readers. There is hypocrisy all around.
Right now, the marijuana industry, including accessories, is worth $1.5 billion a year. Estimates call for a quadrupling of that amount in four years. Marijuana proponents united as a voting block could be a huge force for more sane laws.
As we’ve come to know in this country, they might not care about us, but they do care about our money. Register to vote and make yourself be heard.
Montag, 29. September 2014
Strain : Jack Herer
via Cannabis https://www.facebook.com/cannaworld/photos/a.450436521687014.108131.450434128353920/796259823771347/?type=1
Sonntag, 28. September 2014
Samstag, 27. September 2014
How To Recognize Magnesium Deficiencies In Marijuana Plants
How To Recognize Magnesium Deficiencies In Marijuana Plants
A lack of magnesium (Mg) can occur in all planting mediums and hydroponic systems. It does not often happen to outdoor marijuana growers however. Symptoms will start in the lower leaves, as they begin to yellow and exhibit chlorosis. These leaves will start to curl inward and eventually die. Edges of the leaves feel dry and crunchy to the touch. The deficiency will work itself up toward the middle and upper section of the leaves. The growing shoots will eventually shift from a pale green to a white color. The stems and petioles will all start to turn purple. This ability to travel upward makes a magnesium deficiency very mobile.
Magnesium’s main goal is to promote healthy veins and spur on the production of leaves. It is also needed for the production of chlorophyll and the breaking down of enzymes. Download my free marijuana grow bible for more tips about nutrients and marijuana plant deficiencies.
To fix a magnesium deficiency, there are a number of solutions, but the best one may be the use of a product called Marijuana Booster. It’s something that many growers use to improve the quality of their yields, but it will also ensure a healthy balance of nutrients.
Other fixes include:
- Magnesium sulfate
- Epsom salts
- Dolomite lime
- Garden lime
- Worm castings
Magnesium sulfate and Epsom salts work the fastest because they are water soluble. Indeed, Epsom salts are the easiest fix for hydroponic systems. Use a teaspoon of Epsom salts per every gallon of water in the tank. Treat with a quarter of the original dosage for each subsequent treatment. You can also employ the use of Calcium-Magnesium.
What Is The Right Humidity Level For Marijuana Plants?
What Is The Right Humidity Level For Marijuana Plants?
Humidity and marijuana plants
Humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air, expressed as a percentage. The humidity is very important for a marijuana plant because it determines the degree of evaporation. The lower the humidity, the higher the evaporation pressure and the more water and nutrients your marijuana plant can absorb. However, if the evaporation pressure becomes too high, the plant will protect itself against dehydration and its stomata will close. Consequently it won’t be able to absorb any water anymore, and the grow will stagnate.
So it’s important to create the right humidity level in your grow room. During the growth period, marijuana plants require a higher humidity than during the blooming period because the root system of younger plants is a lot smaller. You can start the growing process with a humidity around 70%, and then lower it by 5 each week until you reach a humidity of 40%. You measure the humidity level with a hygrometer. Later in this article there’s a schedule with the perfect humidity for indoor marijuana plants for each week and some tips for outdoor growers. But first, the relationship between humidity and temperature.
Humidity and temperature in your marijuana grow room
It is important to know that the amount of absorbable water depends on the temperature. With a temperature of 68°F (20°C), the air can absorb a maximum of 7.2 ml of water. This air has a relative humidity of 100%. When that happens the amount of water vapor is so high that you won’t be able to see anything. Air with a temperature of 32°F (0°C) can only absorb about 5 ml of water. This is the reason why the air is a lot drier in the winter than in the summer. I’ve written an e-book that you can download for free, and that’s packed with tips about how to create the perfect climate for your marijuana plant. Download my free marijuana grow bible for more tips about growing marijuana.
Because you constantly ventilate your marijuana grow room you pull, aside from the heat that the lamps create, also the humid air from the room. Therefore you always have to make sure to keep your grow room moist in order to increase the humidity level. There are several ways to increase the humidity. But first I’ll explain why cuttings, seedlings, and growing and blooming marijuana plants all need a different humidity.
Perfect humidity for marijuana cuttings
When your marijuana cuttings are ready to be put in your grow room they don’t have a lot of roots yet. They can’t absorb that much water in this phase, so you want them to evaporate as less water as possible. By keeping the humidity high, the cuttings evaporate less water, and thus need less roots. You can also cut the large leaves halfway from the cutting so that they evaporate less. A humidity of 70% is perfect when you put the cuttings in your grow room.
Cuttings develop roots in a clone box with a temperature of about 71,5°F (22°C), a high humidity and fluorescent lighting. If you put the cuttings under a 600 watt HPS lamp in a room with a humidity of 30% it’ll get a great blow. During the growth period of the root system it’s therefore important to keep the humidity high. The roots grow as long as the plant itself, about until the 2nd or 3rd week in the blooming stage. A strong root system is very important for the absorption of water and nutrients. Download “The Marijuana Bible” for free, and learn how to create a strong root system for your marijuana plants.
Perfect humidity for marijuana seedlings
There are slightly different rules for marijuana seedlings because they already have a taproot during germination, which can absorb moisture and grows really fast. You should not clip the leaves of the seedlings, because the plant needs it for the absorption of light, and the evaporation of water. Yet, it’s not a bad idea to keep the humidity high because the seedling can also absorb water and nutrition via its leaves. You can start at 60% and then gradually reduce it to 40%.
Humidity during the flowering period of marijuana plants
When your marijuana plants begin to flower, you slowly need to reduce the humidity level. The root system is well developed now, so the plant can absorb the maximum amount of water and nutrients. Another reason why you should lower the humidity level during the flowering period is because molds thrive in a climate with high humidity. As the plant grows older, it becomes more likely that it will get infected. The plant uses more water and also evaporates more. When the humidity is high, water can accumulate in the tops where molds get the chance to grow. Bud rot is the most common and annoying mold. Download my free marijuana grow bible for more tips about growing marijuana.
Schedule for the ideal humidity for marijuana plants
Below is an example schedule you can use to make sure that your marijuana plants get the perfect humidity. So there is a difference between cuttings and seedlings, especially the first few weeks.
Marijuana cuttings humidity level
Week 1 growth: 70%
Week 2 growth: 70%
Week 1 flower: 65%
Week 2 flower: 60%
Week 3 flower: 55%
Week 4 flower: 50%
Week 5 flower: 50%
Week 6 flower: 45%
Week 7 flower: 45%
Week 8 flower: 40%
Week 9 flower: 40%
Week 2 growth: 70%
Week 1 flower: 65%
Week 2 flower: 60%
Week 3 flower: 55%
Week 4 flower: 50%
Week 5 flower: 50%
Week 6 flower: 45%
Week 7 flower: 45%
Week 8 flower: 40%
Week 9 flower: 40%
Marijuana seedlings humidity level
Week 1 growth: 60%
Week 2 growth: 60%
Week 1 flower: 55%
Week 2 flower: 50%
Week 3 flower: 50%
Week 4 flower: 50%
Week 5 flower: 50%
Week 6 flower: 45%
Week 7 flower: 45%
Week 8 flower: 40%
Week 9 flower: 40%
Week 2 growth: 60%
Week 1 flower: 55%
Week 2 flower: 50%
Week 3 flower: 50%
Week 4 flower: 50%
Week 5 flower: 50%
Week 6 flower: 45%
Week 7 flower: 45%
Week 8 flower: 40%
Week 9 flower: 40%
How do you increase the humidity in your marijuana grow room?
There are several ways to increase the humidity in your marijuana grow room. You can spray water on the floor or walls. Of course make sure to use pond liners or another waterproof foil. You can also hang the lights a little higher so that the temperature drops a bit around your plants so you don’t have to use the extractor fan as much. Also containers with water or wet towels increase the humidity in your grow room.
If you really want to do it properly you should buy a humidifier. This machine converts water into water vapor and sprays a continuous mist containing a high humidity in your room. They come with a water reservoir or some can be connected to a faucet. Some even have a hygrostat which measures the humidity level and kicks on if it goes below the set value.
How do you decrease the humidity in your marijuana grow room?
From the moment your marijuana plants begins to flower you want to have a somewhat lower humidity, so you’ll need to dehumidify. You can do this by putting the extractor fan on a higher setting, or by blowing cold air in the grow room. The best way to lower the humidity in your grow room is by getting a dehumidifier. This device extracts moisture from the air and either drains it or stores it in a reservoir. Do not use one of those small ones, meant for in the basement, because those fill up in no time if you put them in your marijuana grow room.
The current outdoor humidity can also affect the humidity in your grow room. If the humidity level rapidly rises on rainy days, then turn off the extractor fan or put it on the lowest setting. Make sure the temperature doesn’t rise too quickly, because you’re getting less cold air from outside. Download my free marijuana grow bible for more tips about growing marijuana.
How do you measure the humidity?
You can measure the humidity with a hygrometer. Hang the hygrometer just above the plants, in a well-ventilated area. You can get an analog one for $5, or a digital one for $10. It’s better to get a little more expensive hygrometer. Preferably one with a wire so you can hang the display outside of your grow room. This way you can also monitor the humidity when all the lights are off in your grow room. Often they also come with a memory that keeps track of the highest and lowest values, so you can see if you stayed within the margins. I always use a thermo/hygro meter with a min-max feature.
Humidity while watering your marijuana plants
When you water your marijuana plants, the humidity rises tremendously. That’s great during the growing period, and you can spray the floor and the walls (only if there’s waterproof foil on it), to make the humidity rise. But during the flower period, the humidity levels may get too high after watering. When the lights go off in your grow room, the temperature usually goes down and you don’t need to extract as much hot air, which causes the humidity levels to rise.
So always give your marijuana plants water when the lamps go on, so they can evaporate most of it during the day. When you work with hydroponics, be sure not to spill any water, and keep your space dry in the dark period. Never spray water over your buds if it’s not necessary. This greatly increases the humidity and increases the chance of mold.
Humidity for outdoor marijuana plants
If you grow marijuana outdoors you have little to do with humidity. During the spring, and the beginning of summer a high humidity is no problem, and the plant doesn’t have any buds yet where moisture can accumulate. In the early mornings you’ll notice that your plant is totally wet from the dew and when the day goes on this evaporates without any issues.
But after the summer the actual flowering of the plants begin, but the climate changes as well. It becomes chillier and rains often which causes the humidity to rise. The dew may also pose a problem, because the sun may not always break through and the temperatures aren’t high enough to evaporate it. A lot of rain can also be a problem.
Your plants won’t get any bud rot after a little bit of rain. It’s just something to keep an eye on, because it would be a waste to see any rot after so much love and effort you put in your marijuana plants for six months. If you can, shake the dew off your plants in the morning during the final bloom month. If rainy days are forecast, it’s recommended to put your plants under a shelter or another dry place.
How do you measure the humidity
You can measure the humidity with a hygrometer. Hang the hygrometer just above the plants, in a well-ventilated area. You can get an analog one for $5, or a digital one for $10. It’s better to get a little more expensive hygrometer. Preferably one with a wire so you can hang the display outside of your grow room. This way you can also monitor the humidity when all the lights are off in your grow room. Often they also come with a memory that keeps track of the highest and lowest values, so you can see if you stayed within the margins. I always use a thermo/hygro meter with a min-max feature.
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